There are more children wielding mobile phones than wearing enclosed shoes – a common theme throughout the streets of PNG. Will Chambers asks Beau Scott amid the chaos of the team's bus trip through the city a day earlier if he is going to put sun-screen on his balding scalp, such is the ferocity of the heat. Sione Mata'utia had to battle to hang on to his mobile phone as it was almost snatched from his grasp as he tried to capture the excitement of the fans chasing the team's bus.

The players are dressed ready to play at the team's hotel. They do a light warm up on the field, under heavy security but can't mingle with fans before the game because of security risks.

The usual 15-minute bus trip to Kalabond Stadium is doubled as the driver tries to weave through the sea of people hoping to get a glimpse of the stars, with waving hands a feature of the journey. They bang on the bus, scream and wave.

Daniel Tupou and Josh Papalii are the fans' favourites. "Paaapaleee" is mouthed almost everywhere the Canberra enforcer heads. Tupou's size leaves the locals in awe.

By kick-off it's 38 degrees. A PNG official estimates the crowd to be about 7000. That figure is easily doubled when you take into account those surrounding the ground. A corporate box ticket costs about $200 and even they are full. They cheered every big hit and clapped every near try. They erupted when they finally broke their try-scoring drought.

There was a slight hiccup with two local women's teams arriving for the first match minus footballs, prompting a frantic phone call to Australian officials. This, despite Tim Sheens having presented the sides with eight footballs each at a coaching clinic on Friday.