Intercontinental Singapore, Singapore

THE LOCATION

The 21-year-old Intercontinental is in the shopping district of Bugis​, named for the piratical Bugis seafarers of Sulawesi who apparently spawned the term "boogyman". But there's nothing nefarious about this five-star, nor its location: set sail to all points and you'll discover something amazing in Asia's triple-A rated city. British legacies like the Padang and Fort Canning are walking distance, while the super-futurism of Marina Bay is two stops on the efficient MTR. Closer to home, Bugis shopping runs the gamut of brand-tastic malls as well as hawkers markets (where a few pirates still lurk).

THE SPACE

When 5.4 million people sit on a handkerchief-sized peninsula, space is the ultimate indulgence, although colonial British motifs still strike some dependable notes of opulence. The arch practitioner is of course Raffles Hotel, two blocks south.

The 403-room Intercon has certainly gone big on bigness, most notably in its cavernous two-storey lobby supported by columns and hung with chandeliers. It's a fine sight, especially when afternoon tea is in full swing. Meanwhile, a second-floor Club (gratis cocktails served 5pm to 7.30pm), three fine diners, a 140 square metre gym and an open air pool on level four (overlooked by frangipanis and students working in the National Library) are also plush and commodious.

The hotel's decor used to be colonially inspired but a 2016 makeover takes its cues from local "shop house" architecture as well as the colour and elegance of the Malay-Chinese Peranakan people. The effect is distinct, refined and rather refreshing.

THE ROOM

I'm installed in an entry level Deluxe suite, from $S400 a night ($A384), on the 11th floor. It has room to move, a very comfortable bed, generous TV, writing desk and tasteful sofa. The decor is a smooth fusion of white colonial panelling and organic Peranakan motifs so I know exactly where I am in the world. If I find myself unsure, I also have a fine view of Singapore's dynamic mid-town architecture.

The en suite has separate shower and bath, reasonable space and some tiny signs of fixture wear.

If you pile on the dollars you increase living space and views, the apogee being the $S5000-a-night 280 square metre Presidential Suite on the 16th floor. Meanwhile, the second floor of the Heritage Wing offers an unusual homage to Peranakan shop house living: the colourful four-room suites have balconies onto the covered retail strip, Bugis Junction.

THE FOOD

Appropriately enough, the food is very good. Fine diner Ash and Elm serves contemporary European in a clever space suggestive of a Singapore street, and since breakfast is also served here, everyone gets to try it. Man Fu Yuan​ is a more cloistered affair but the entrees speak of incredible care by the chef. Actually, all the foods, including the petit high tea cakes, give that impression of artisans working carefully.

The Club is a refined retreat where cocktails and canapes are enthusiastically served. The public Victoria Bar is lacklustre by comparison, and serves so-so Thai beer.

STEPPING OUT

Where to start? Start by looking out of your hotel window and wishing you had five days instead of two. A "stopover" just doesn't do this city justice.

The National Gallery opened in November and totally speaks to the new Singapore: the government has basically turned the 1856 City Hall and the Supreme Court into a sculpture and filled it with 8000 works of contemporary Asian art. It's where you'll find protest paintings moments from original jail cells.

Be sure to meet the Peranakan at the lovely 2008 museum on Armenian Street. Singapore has only recently begun celebrating this part of its culture – even Lee Kuan Yew, father of Singapore, kept it quiet that he was of Chinese-Malay descent.

At night, head to Club Street for pioneering restaurants like Bird Bird (Thai chicken taken to some unusual limits) and an increasingly edgy bar scene (if you can find it, try underground cocktail bar, Operation Dagger). Then get an eyeful of the Asian Century from Cé La Vi on the 56th floor of Marina Bay Sands – as theatre critics have it, "a glittering triumph".

THE VERDICT

A thoughtful, considered hotel making a confident statement in a city that's constantly reaching for new heights.

HIGHLIGHT

The staff – they're stellar. I witnessed two older Australian ladies delighting at recognising a waitress who'd served them two years ago. The waitress similarly recalled them, and there were hugs all round.

LOWLIGHT

The en suites have low-voltage plugs so ladies can't use hair dryers in the bathroom. Apparently a cause for much complaint.

ESSENTIALS

Intercontinental Singapore, 80 Middle Road, Singapore.

Rooms start from $S400 for a Deluxe room. Breakfast for two is $S35. Room and Club membership – breakfast and Club use – from $S550. See ihg.com

Max Anderson was a guest of Intercontinental Singapore and Singapore Airlines.