When vinyl records were all the go, there were singles, carrying a song a side. The A-side had the track predicted to be a hit and the B-side, a deeper cut considered to have less wow-factor but which was often more interesting. These B-sides sometimes transcended their more-fancied neighbours.
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Point-in-case: Kraftwerk's The Model, released as the B-side to 1981's Computer Love. DJs preferred The Model and it became the hit.
This B-side phenomenon applies to cities: places overshadowed by a "hit" city but which come to the fore to those who take the time to explore them. (Authentically Cajun Lafayette (B-side) to glitzy New Orleans (A-side) is one example; genteel Padua to frenetic Venice in Italy another.)
Though Kraftwerk weren't happy about their own B-side hit (they are notoriously controlling of their enigmatic image) they do love their home town of Dusseldorf – and it is a classic B-side town; a less obvious, more discoverable alternative to A-side capital Berlin.
The western German city on the Rhine is only the country's seventh most populous and the Dusseldorfers like it that way. It leaves them room to be their creative, somewhat quirky selves.
1. A-SIDE BERLIN'S HISTORIC HOTELS / B-SIDE DUSSELDORF 'S BREIDENBACHER HOF
Whenever famous musicians are playing within 100 kilometres of Dusseldorf, they stay here. (Deep Purple were on the presidential floor during our stay.) It's one of those sumptuous hotels where everybody knows your name, your drink and your coffee preferences and above and beyond is the only way. One of the "personal assistants" (a concierge kind of person) is also a former tennis pro, for example, and has been known, on request, to take guests out for a hit and a masterclass.
2. A-SIDE BERLIN'S POLITICAL RELICS / B-SIDE DUSSELDORF'S KIEFERNSTRASSE
Kiefernstrasse is an enclave of turn-of-the-20th-century apartments for steelworkers that became squats in the late '80s, housing the displaced. After terrorist Eva Haule was found to be living there, 800 police raided and political unrest ensued. Today, it's a ramshackle wonder of beautiful street art and eclectic mix of nationalities and societal types.
3. A-SIDE BERLIN'S COOL STYLE / B-SIDE DUSSELDORF'S FASHION
Dusseldorf is Germany's fashion capital. There are 800 designer showrooms here that dictate the country's clothing trends and the locals love it. They're even a little bit dandy. Soak it up on Konigsallee – locally known as the Ko, a boulevard of fabulous shopping. Schadowstrasse, cutting from downtown to the Old Quarter, is one of the busiest shopping streets in Germany.
4. A-SIDE BERLIN'S BARS / B-SIDE DUSSELDORF'S BREWERIES
As the home of the Oktoberfest Germany has, in general, disappointed beer connoisseurs. But Dusseldorf is home to the endemic altbier, or "old beer", a top-fermented, amber-coloured bitter ale.
Enjoy it at Zum Schiffchen, the oldest restaurant in Dusseldorf. (Napoleon did.) Dating from 1628, it's got all the rustic charm without the twee you might expect.
When you've had enough altbier – here or at other Dusseldorf breweries – put a coaster on top of your glass. Otherwise the blue-aproned waiters will keep topping you up – and charging.
5. A-SIDE BERLIN'S NATIONAL GALLERIES AND MUSEUMS / B-SIDE DUSSELDORF'S SMALL AND INTERESTING INSTITUTIONS
Dusseldorf has developed as an important centre for contemporary art. There's also a funky underground scene – quite literally, with a former underground void space between Rhine embankment structures now turned into KIT, aka Kunst im Tunnel, a changing exhibition space for students.
There's a museum to Goethe, to theatre, ceramics and clocks as well as the more orthodox offerings. Dusseldorf and the region also offers lots of historic parks, palaces and castles.
6. A-SIDE BERLIN'S RIVER FRONT / B-SIDE DUSSELDORF'S RIVER FRONT
Once a motor thoroughfare, in the late '90s a section of Dusseldorf's riverbank was reclaimed as the Rheinuferpromenade, where locals watch sunsets from the stairs at Burgplatz, stroll the nearly two-kilometre path, or enjoy bars and restaurants. Across the river, people picnic on sandy beaches while a herd of sheep roams nearby, mowing the grass (yep, that's what they're there for).
7. A-SIDE BERLIN'S MICHELIN STARS / B-SIDE DUSSELDORF'S CHEAP AND CHEERY
Dusseldorf's Carlsplatz Markt is the perfect small farmer's market, with flowers, fruits and a potato stand boasting a ridiculous amount of varieties. Bakeries and cheap and cheery eateries abound throughout the city.
And on weekends, Dusseldorf's Aldstadt lives up to its nickname of "the world's longest bar" with more than 250 bars and nightclubs in a very small radius full to the brim. It positively seethes.
And back to that river promenade. Most travellers might expect to get stung eating and drinking with a river view. But some of the promenade restaurants are crazy cheap.
8. A-SIDE BERLIN'S INTERNATIONAL EVENTS / B-SIDE DUSSELDORF'S BESPOKE FESTIVALS
Dusseldorf has one of Europe's biggest Japanese communities and everyone gets into all things Nippon on Japan Day. Dusseldorf is a bastion of traditional Carnival, including Altweiberfastnacht, a day when women storm city hall and also, attack the ties of unsuspecting blokes with scissors (don't wear your good tie). The summer funfair in the Oberkassel Rhine meadows is a family tradition and there's a multitude of higher end cultural festivals.
9. A-SIDE BERLIN'S MONUMENTS / B-SIDE DUSSELDORF'S ARCHITECTURE
Dusseldorf is not the most intact and beautiful of European cityscapes, though its old town is lovely. But it is home to some fine modern buildings, including Frank Gehry's Neuer Zollhof buildings, the striking black granite Kunstammlung art gallery, the elegant Port Promontory Twin Towers and the 240-metre-high Rheinturm telecommunications tower.
10. A-SIDE BERLIN'S PEOPLE / B-SIDE DUSSELDORF'S PEOPLE
Germans can be misunderstood outside Germany. They're pretty great, though, A-side or B-side. In Dusseldorf, they're relaxed, often a little avant-garde, fun, and sometimes have a wicked sense of humour. (Yes, humour.) They're also generous, welcoming and keen for you to enjoy their city.
TRIP NOTES
MORE INFORMATION
GETTING THERE
Singapore Airlines flies to Dusseldorf via Singapore. See singaporeair.com
STAYING THERE
Breidenbacher Hof, a Capella Hotel; Konigsallee 11, Dusseldorf; +49 211 160 900; see breidenbacherhofcapella.com
EATING THERE
Our cheap riverside eat was at Cafe Bato; see kasematten-duesseldorf.de/bato/
Julietta Jameson travelled as a guest of Singapore Airlines.
